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Daimaru Kobe tests a one-day, five-bakery babka tasting event

Five Kobe-area bakeries line up their take on babka, an Eastern European sweet bread still rare on Japanese shelves, for one day on Daimaru Kobe's basement food floor.

Editorial illustration of a department-store basement food counter, five small trays of twisted braided sweet breads arranged under glass, warm bakery lighting, a shopper's silhouette reaching toward the display.
Illustration by floortok.com

Daimaru Matsuzakaya Department Store Co., Ltd. (株式会社大丸松坂屋百貨店) said it will gather babka (バブカ) -- a twisted, filled sweet bread -- from five Kobe-area bakeries at a special venue in front of the east escalator on the basement level of Daimaru Kobe (大丸神戸店), for one day only on November 3, a national holiday, according to a November 2 announcement. The stall runs 10am to 6pm, or until stock sells out.

Babka, which the company describes as a sweet bread of Eastern European origin that spread to New York with immigrants, is still a minor category on Japanese bakery shelves, and each of the five shops is bringing a different take. La Pierre Blanche (ラ・ピエール・ブランシュ), run by chocolatier Tadashi Shiraiwa, is selling a brioche babka with almond cream, chocolate chips, hazelnuts and orange peel at ¥880; Concent Market (コンセントマーケット), a Nishinomiya bakery founded in 2010, is offering a kumquat-and-chestnut-chocolate version at ¥1,200 and a pecan-and-cacao-nib version at ¥1,000, made from a blended danish, campagne and baguette dough. Pan Lab Saku (ぱんらぼSaku) of Higashinada Ward, Kobe, is selling a hojicha, white chocolate and orange babka at ¥600; Side Field Bread, near JR Nada or Hanshin Iwaya stations, a pistachio chocolate version at ¥380; and Boulangerie Ono (ブーランジェリー・オノ) of Nada Ward two versions -- a bitter-cacao Cacao Passion at ¥540 and a Coffee Chocolat at ¥486.

It's a small event -- one day, five counters, no stated plan to extend it -- but it is a familiar move for a depachika: testing a still-unfamiliar product category against real footfall before deciding whether it earns a permanent counter. Pitting five bakeries' versions side by side also lets Daimaru read which interpretation of babka -- chocolate-heavy, fruit-forward or closer to a classic brioche -- actually sells, information a single vendor's trial run wouldn't give it.